Elegance and Rebellion: The Turtleneck's Timeless Appeal
In the world of fashion, certain garments transcend time and trends to become iconic symbols of style and maintain their appeal over generations. The turtleneck is one such piece, treasured for its unique blend of elegance, practicality, and cultural significance. Let’s unveil the history, evolutions and iconic moments behind the timeless classic that we reach for over and over again without realising its full power and heritage.
The Turtleneck's Roots and Fashion History
The turtleneck's origins can be traced back to practicality rather than high fashion. In medieval Europe, knights and soldiers wore high neck garments underneath their chainmail coifs and helmets to protect their necks from chafing and abrasions. High necklines fully covering the neck were also adopted by members of the royal courts in Europe from the 14th century. Men often wore garments called houppelande, full-length gowns with very high collars. Throughout the history the royalty, clergy, merchants and other members of society wore various garments with high necklines that are reminiscent of what we call turtleneck.
The neck covering remained mostly utilitarian and protective throughout 19th century when they were worn by factory workers, labourers, athletes, seamen – jobs held by men exclusively. After mid-19th century, polo players began wearing them and that is where the alternative name “polo neck” came from. Soon after, young girls were borrowing the style from their college brothers, but the look was not publicly accepted or allowed by the establishment – it appeared too self-assured and tough for women.
At the beginning of the 20th century, it became a symbol of those men who rejected the formal and traditional way of dressing and life, removing it from its utilitarian origins. Female wearers slowly started taking up higher necklines featured on Victorian blouses and dresses and caught up in the 1920s when Gabrielle Chanel embraced it as a symbol of elegance. Chanel's designs introduced a touch of femininity to the androgynous style of the time that was challenging traditional gender norms. The turtleneck became a symbol of sophistication and independent femininity, revolutionizing women's fashion.
It has been a staple in the wardrobes of sophisticated and independent women ever since, solidifying its place in history as a timeless icon.
During World War II, turtlenecks became a practical choice for military personnel, providing protection and warmth in cold weather. During the 1940s, the turtleneck sweater was fully and publicly embraced by women, popularized by the ‘sweater girls’, who sometimes wore it a few sizes too small to emphasize their curves. This look was often used in brasserie advertisements of the time.
The 'sweater girls' wore tight turtleneck sweaters, emphasizing the female curves
In the 1950s, the turtleneck was associated with academic and intellectual circles – most notably the 'beatniks'. They favoured the turtleneck as a symbol of nonconformity and a rejection of mainstream fashion.
The humble garment being adopted as a representation of individuality and anti-establishment sentiments continued in the 1960s. For artists, intellectuals and activists of the era, it was more than a piece of clothing, it was a manifesto, a symbol of rebellion, counterculture and free-thinking spirit.
The Black Panthers, feminists (famously Gloria Steinem and Dorothy Pitman Hughes) and activists (here John Lennon and Yoko Ono) used turtleneck as a symbol of their rebellion against the societal norms
The 1970s saw turtlenecks take on new roles in pop culture and film. The styling in movies was both ultra-feminine and androgynous, setting fashion trends for years to come. In the music world, turtlenecks were favoured by many unconventional as well as mainstream musicians, bringing a touch of bohemian cool to the decade.
Starting in the 1980s, the turtleneck was embraced in preppy fashion, often paired with pleated skirts, high-waisted pants, and accessorized with statement belts. It became a symbol of sophistication and was a popular choice for those looking to achieve a polished look. On the other side of the fashion spectrum, turtleneck leotards and bodysuits were worn as activewear during aerobics and exercise classes.
1990s styling of the turtleneck was sleek and minimalist (Priness Diana, Whitney Houston, the supermodels and actors were all fans of turtlenecks in the 90s)
The turtleneck trend was accepted by contrasting movements of fashion and society in the 1990s. The minimalists would often wear a monochrome look or pairing turtlenecks with jeans to create a refined look.
The grunge movement brought back the turtleneck as a symbol of non-conformity, wearing it under flannel shirts and worn-out oversized sweaters and cardigans.
In urban and hip-hop fashion, turtlenecks were sometimes seen as part of the "player" or "fly" style, worn with gold chains, baggy pants, and oversized jackets, creating a distinctive streetwear aesthetic.
Turtleneck on music icons of the past decades (Rihanna, Nirvana, Janet Jackson, Snoop Dogg, Lil Kim, Notorious BIG, P. Diddy, N'Sync, Tupac Shakur, Whitney Houston)
The last decades of 20th century showcased the turtleneck's adaptability and ability to cater to different fashion trends and subcultures. It was and continues to be a canvas for personal style and cultural expression, reflecting the diversity and fluidity of fashion.
Cultural Significance
The turtleneck has always been more than just a piece of clothing. It has symbolized freedom, elegance, and rebellion, adapting to cultural shifts and evolving fashion tastes. Its cultural significance includes / iconic moments:
Gender Equality: The turtleneck's early adoption by women in the early 1900s marked a shift towards gender equality in fashion, offering an alternative to restrictive and uncomfortable garments and promoting a sense of individuality. In the second half of the 20th century, it was widely used by intellectuals and feminists, most notably by women's rights fighters Gloria Steinem and Dorothy Pitman Hughes.
Rebellion and Nonconformity: Throughout history, the turtleneck has been the preferred choice of individuals who challenge the status quo, making it a symbol of nonconformity and individuality. It symbolized anti-establishment sentiments, the rejection of mainstream fashion and even revolutionary ideals.
Artistic and Intellectual Expression: The turtleneck has been worn by cultural icons and artists such as Andy Warhol, Steve Jobs and Bob Marley. Their choices in clothing have left a lasting impact on popular culture, making the turtleneck an emblem of innovation, creativity and artistic expression. Film and pop icons appearing in turtlenecks contributed to its avant-garde image and cultural relevance.
Some of the brightest minds and most creative and influential people of the 20th century all wore turtleneck regularly (Carl Sagan, Princess Diana, David Bowie, The Beatles, Steve Jobs, Andy Warhol)
Elegance and Timelessness: Its enduring presence in the world of fashion testifies to its timeless appeal and unique ability to combine practicality with elegance. The turtleneck's versatility lies in its ability to adapt to different fashion aesthetics and occasions, bridging the gap between high fashion and everyday wear. Whether you want to evoke mystery and sensuality, embrace a casual and relaxed vibe, or channel timeless elegance, the turtleneck can be a valuable addition to your wardrobe.
Styles and Evolutions
The turtleneck's enduring appeal can be attributed to its versatility and adaptability. Over the years, it has evolved to cater to various fashion preferences:
The Classic Turtleneck: A timeless piece with a high, close-fitting collar that can be worn as a standalone garment or layered for extra warmth.
Mock Turtleneck: Features a shorter and looser collar than the traditional turtleneck, providing a more relaxed and comfortable fit.
Turtleneck Sweater: A popular choice for its warmth and style, often made from soft and luxurious materials like cashmere or merino wool.
Turtleneck Dress: A chic and sophisticated option for women, combining the elegance of a dress with the warmth of a turtleneck.
Turtleneck Bodysuit: A modern twist that offers a seamless and snug fit, making it ideal for layering under various outfits.
In conclusion, the turtleneck's rich history, iconic moments, and cultural significance make it a testament to the ever-evolving nature of fashion. From its medieval origins to its role in counterculture movements and beyond, the turtleneck is transcending mere clothing to become a symbol of societal shifts and medium of personal and cultural expression. It has a remarkable ability to adapt and mirror the evolving tastes and values of society. It represents varied divisions of people and society – from beatniks to sweater girls, from Steve Jobs to Bob Dylan, from seductive French actresses to the Black Panthers.
It can and is often unconsciously used to highlight mind-over-body, it takes focus away from the body and towards the mind by creating a kind of visual void.
Iconic moments in popculture featuring a turtleneck top (Sharon Stone in 'Basic Instinct' movie, Billie Eilish at the 2020 Grammy Awards, Steve Jobs introducing the new Macbook Air, Britney Spears in her 'Oops!...I did it again' music video, Beyonce and her nod to the Black Panthers at the 2013 Superbowl Half Time Show, Female NASA astronauts, 'Seinfeld' sitcom)
Whether you wear it for warmth, fashion, or a statement of rebellion, the turtleneck remains an enduring symbol of style and substance. It has gracefully navigated the currents of fashion history, always making a statement in one way or another. It connects the past with the present, offering a glimpse into the ever-evolving landscape of fashion. It's more than just clothing; it's a cultural icon.
This icon keeps reminding us that clothing can be a powerful tool for self-representation and social change.
Some of the most recognizable women in the world all embraced the stylish yet mysterious black turtleneck
Music legends have always been fans of the turtleneck look
World-renown fashion designers also choose turtleneck as their 'uniform' (Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Ralph Lauren, Rick Owens, Halston)
The trutleneck is an inseparable part of the French style and look, especially in natural colors like black turtleneck and cream turtleneck (Francoise Hardy, Catherine Deneuve, Brigette Bardot)