In the world where fashion is often synonymous with big, bold names and flamboyant, attention-seeking personalities, we find an elusive maestro, a creator who shunned the spotlight. His designs spoke volumes, yet the man himself remained in the shadows.
An enigma whose name and brilliance, although celebrated among the real connoisseurs, is not often mentioned alongside other icons of fashion design.
Enter the world of Cristóbal Balenciaga, where quiet mastery and passion for perfection, innovation and sophistication created real fashion history and left an unfading mark on haute couture.
Join me as we embark on a journey into the fascinating life of the most successful Spanish fashion designer of the 20th century, discovering the origins and inspirations behind his creations in this two-part series.
“His voice was very low, and often you had to concentrate to hear it. His first name was Cristóbal.”
Diana Vreeland
Cristóbal Balenciaga Eisaguirre was born in the seaside village of Getaria, Spain in 1895. From early on he was surrounded by beauty - beautiful scenery of the Basque Country, the quiet elegance of churches and cathedrals, as well as Spanish art and fashion. After the death of his father, Cristóbal’s mother worked as a seamstress for private clients who were often the aristocracy and wealthy that came to enjoy the Spanish coast.
Completing only the obligatory elementary education, he started an internship with a tailor in the neighbouring San Sebastian when he was 12 and later in Madrid. He had a supporter and mentor in Marquesa Casa Tores, who gave young Balenciaga access to her wardrobe and let him copy her garments and design for her. She also helped him secure and finance his dressmaking training, and as an art enthusiast and collector, she educated Cristóbal on art and fashion.
In 1919, still in his early 20’s and already with substantial experience, he opened his first Balenciaga salon with his sister in San Sebastian and went on to dress the Spanish Queen, Queen Mother and various royalty. After the fall of the king (1931), he lost a big part of his clientele and the house was forced to declare bankruptcy and close.
Encouraged by his friend and partner Wladzio d’Attainville, he soon opened another salon in San Sebastian and later in Madrid and Barcelona. However, according to the Spanish law, he was not able to trade as Balenciaga, as the name has been previously associated with bankruptcy, and therefore called the establishments Eisa - derived from his mother’s surname.
The salons remained open and managed by the Balenciaga family until his retirement.
When the civil war made business and life in Spain unstable for Balenciaga, he moved first to London and later to Paris where he set up his atelier in 1937. The fashion capital was familiar grounds from his previous trips in search of materials, designs to copy and adapt for Spanish market and inspiration.
His hard work, innovation and distinct creations made him not just one of the most popular and celebrated fashion designers of the French fashion, but according to many, its Master.
“Haute Couture is like an orchestra, whose conductor is Balenciaga. We other couturiers are the musicians and we follow the direction he gives. He is the master of us all.”
Christian Dior
Despite being Dior’s only serious rival during his 10 year rule over the Parisian fashion scene, he received the highest praise from Monsieur Dior. The press and the clients also considered Cristóbal Balenciaga to be a revolutionizing force in fashion. Already having had success in Paris in 1930s, he really emerged in late 1940s where he was the main competitor and peer of favourite designers like Jacques Fath, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Gabrielle Chanel and even Yves Saint Laurent.
While in the 1930s and 40s he belonged among the contemporary “mainstream” haute couture designers, it was the following decades that he could offer alternatives when the Parisian fashion divided. He moved slowly from smart, tailored suits and coats, small waists and full-skirted evening dresses, via practical suits and evening wear, often defying the Nazi fabric rationing, to the 1950s when Dior was moulding women’s bodies into shapes and into corsetry, Balenciaga was developing timeless models that were easier to wear and moved with the body.
Cristóbal Balenciaga, an intensely private person, wove an aura of mystery around himself – either unintentionally - being shy and quiet - or purposefully - allowing his designs to speak for him.
And his designs do speak. As they did during his reign, they continue to mesmerise to this day.
Being a quiet person, only giving two interviews in his life, both after retirement, not being photographed (some rumours suggested he was short and chubby, others believed Balenciaga was a name behind which at least two designers were creating), not writing an autobiography like his peers at the time, we have to look deeper into his creations because they were the only output of the genius.
Cristóbal Balenciaga himself rarely saw even his private clients, he did not talk to press about his life or collections and even his fashion shows were silent, unaccompanied by music or the usual model descriptions. He did not give names to his lines or the individual models, the press took this part upon themselves.
He dedicated all his time to research and his craft, which he perfected and earned himself the nickname of “fashion’s Michelangelo”.
“With fabrics, we do what we can. Balenciaga does what he wants.”
Christian Dior
Balenciaga was immersed in his designs from conception to final creation, often ripping and re-doing a model, when it wasn’t just perfect. He chose the colors and materials with clear intention and thinking of a painter and architect, all while being most considerate towards the wearer’s body.
Working with over 70 textile and trimmings suppliers, even developing new materials suiting his needs (Silk gazar) and using them in innovative ways further show the dedication to his craft.
His designs were changing from season to season only slowly, not following the fast pace of new silhouettes of other couturiers. The season-less and timeless approach to fashion and emphasis of his clients’ needs rather than trends make his designs as relevant now, as they were 50-80 years ago.
Ease of movement, accommodating different female figures and making sure his daywear is practical, not just attractive, earned him an enthusiastic following of clients from all over the Europe and the world. Women used to undertake the risk of travelling to Europe during WW2 to get their latest outfit from The Master.
Balenciaga’s contributions to fashion are countless. From the way we think of the female body in connection with the dress, to handling of fabrics, silhouettes and the high level of haute couture craftsmanship, we still look up to Cristóbal Balenciaga.
He introduced new shapes and silhouettes to the world: the balloon skirt, the cocoon curve coat, the tunic jacket/ dress, baby doll dress, 3/4 and 7/8 sleeves, wide shoulders, pillbox hat and necklines cut high in front and low at the back among many others.
The fashion innovations of Cristóbal Balenciaga perfectly showcase the talent, tailoring skills, understanding of fabrics and despite his perfectionism and allure of an haute couture master, also the practical understanding of his clients. The high stand-away collar was created for the famous editor and one of his few close friends Carmel Snow, to distract from her short neck; the 7/8 sleeves were reportedly designed for women who after the WW2 increasingly worked outside of the house and the shorter design would protect them from getting dirty as quickly as regular length sleeves.
"Balenciaga alone is a couturier in the truest sense of the word.”
Gabrielle Chanel
Cristóbal Balenciaga is above all renowned for his meticulous art of tailoring. Using clever cutting techniques and minimal seaming and darting in his designs, he managed to transform fabric into sculptural wonders that almost reach beyond fashion.
Balenciaga's garments, often described as attire for those wishing to be steps, or even jumps, ahead of everyone, showcased his forward-thinking approach and endless experimentation. His obsession with tailoring reached a pinnacle in his quest for the perfect sleeve, a crucial element in achieving the ideal silhouette.
His dedication to the art of tailoring and pioneering use of materials defines his legacy in haute couture to this day.
In this first instalment of our Balenciaga series we've unravelled the threads of Balenciaga's early life, his approach to his craft, and the enigmatic persona that shrouded him.
In Part 2, we will delve into the influences, heritage, and the lasting legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga.
The heritage of Balenciaga and his innovations are visible in some of our vintage pieces too - the 'balloon shape', wide shoulders, asymmetric shapes, and heavy use of black fabric:
BLACK TIERED EVENING DRESS WITH ROSE DETAILS
BLACK BALLOON MINI DRESS WITH FLORAL APPLIQUE
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In the meantime, before we publish Part 2 of this article, we recommend the new Disney+ series Cristóbal Balenciaga, which follows the 30 years of the designer ruling the French fashion and living in Paris. Historically accurate and a beautiful cinematic experience, there is finally a fashion series that starts the new year right.